How Longchamp Turned the Basic Nylon Tote Into a Full-Blown Luxury Icon When the French luxury house introduced its Le Pliage bag 20 years ago, it was met with very little fanfare. Three years later and with virtually no marketing, it became a hit. Today, the company sells 10 a minute.

By Geoff Weiss

Opinions expressed by BIZ Experiences contributors are their own.

Longchamp
Le Pliage, Longchamp's ubiquitous nylon tote.

Very rare is the product that rises through the ranks of the retail pantheon to become -- suddenly -- an icon.

In the world of high fashion, you can probably count them on one hand: classic Chanel tweed. Louis Vuitton luggage. Louboutin heels, Birkin bags and Burberry trenches. Each is instantly recognizable, and each carries a starry social cachet that often eclipses its mother brand.

For Longchamp, the French luxury house founded in 1948, this icon is Le Pliage. Thirty million of the ubiquitous nylon tote bags have been sold since the product's launch in 1994 -- a sum that largely contributed to total company sales of $579 million last year. Today, Longchamp says, 10 Le Pliage bags are sold every minute across the globe.

The bags -- available in a cheery array of colors and trimmed in grainy brown leather -- are named for the French verb "to fold.' Each tote, when collapsed, is reduced to the size of a paperback book.

And at $95 to $145 a pop, they are also significantly cheaper than comparable luxury purses. Longchamp's own leather handbags, for instance, can reach upwards of $1,000.

Related: Beanies, Tees and Steez: How Shaun Neff Built a $100 Million Business Out of His Backpack

As an energetic -- and synthetic -- foil to the company's foundational leather offer, the unforeseen success of Le Pliage has felt like a "viral" event, says the company's CEO, Jean Cassegrain. (The family owned and operated company was initially established by Cassegrain's grandfather as a vendor of leather-clad tobacco pipes.)

Longchamp CEO Jean Cassegrain and one of the company's original, leather-clad tobacco pipes

Longchamp CEO Jean Cassegrain and one of the company's original leather-clad tobacco pipes.
Image credit: Longchamp

Amid its initial deployment 20 years ago, Cassegrain says, Le Pliage was met with little fanfare, and was supported by virtually zero marketing dollars. Three years later, it suddenly turned into an all-out hit. "It's not like we created this and decided to make it a star," Cassegrain says. "It became a star almost by itself -- by the sole force of the product."

While even Cassegrain himself seems a little mystified by Le Pliage's explosive growth, he points to the bag's intergenerational appeal as one explanation.

"It's universal," he said. "Usually, a 12-year-old or an 18-year-old doesn't want to use anything that's the same as their mother or grandmother." The fact that the bag is proudly toted by high school students (as a stylish backpack alternative) and senior citizens alike would seem to point to something of a sociological anomaly.

Related: This 13-Year-Old BIZ Experiences Just Debuted Her Clothing Line at NY Fashion Week

And on this, its 20th birthday, while the family is elated by Le Pliage's achievements, they have also sought to steady the product's ascent with a careful hand.

Marketing efforts, for instance, have been few and far between. For one, Cassegrain explains, the product became successful enough not to require any ads. Second, the team doesn't want a nylon product to overshadow its rich roots in leathercrafting. "We have to be careful that the brand is not reduced to that product," Cassegrain said.

But at the end of the day, he says, the key to creating an iconic product lies in striking a tricky balance between bucking tradition and worshiping it.

"Le Pliage supports Longchamp because of its wide appeal, because it's colorful, because it's young, because it brings traffic into the store and because it brings a lot of energy to the brand," he said. "But the brand also supports Le Pliage because it's chic, because it has know-how, quality, reliability and a sense of status that the bag alone wouldn't have."

Related: Meet the 28-Year-Old Stylist Who Dresses the World's Most Beautiful Woman

Geoff Weiss

Former Staff Writer

Geoff Weiss is a former staff writer at BIZ Experiences.com.

Want to be an BIZ Experiences Leadership Network contributor? Apply now to join.

Business Ideas

70 Small Business Ideas to Start in 2025

We put together a list of the best, most profitable small business ideas for BIZ Experiencess to pursue in 2025.

Science & Technology

OpenAI's Latest Move Is a Game Changer — Here's How Smart Solopreneurs Are Turning It Into Profit

OpenAI's latest AI tool acts like a full-time assistant, helping solopreneurs save time, find leads and grow their business without hiring.

Social Media

How To Start a Youtube Channel: Step-by-Step Guide

YouTube can be a valuable way to grow your audience. If you're ready to create content, read more about starting a business YouTube Channel.

Money & Finance

These Are the Expected Retirement Ages By Generation, From Gen Z to Boomers — and the Average Savings Anticipated. How Do Yours Compare?

Many Americans say inflation prevents them from saving enough and fear they won't reach their financial goals.

Starting a Business

I Built a $20 Million Company by Age 22 While Still in College. Here's How I Did It and What I Learned Along the Way.

Wealth-building in your early twenties isn't about playing it safe; it's about exploiting the one time in life when having nothing to lose gives you everything to gain.

Business Solutions

Boost Team Productivity and Security With Windows 11 Pro, Now $15 for Life

Ideal for BIZ Experiencess and small-business owners who are looking to streamline their PC setup.